Range Rover, Wod's Site, Restauration, Replacement of 2. generation mkII p38 airspring with Arnott generation 3 Airspring,

This page is about restauration, and I renounce any claims according to use the tips on this Site. It is on one's own responsibility to follow the restauration-step.
Overview: -Symptoms in the weeks before. -Why replace. -Errorcode on Dashboard. -Conciderations on replacement springs and tools. -Step 1 Deflating the air system -Step 2 to step 27 Replacing the rear springs -Step 28 to step 57 replacing the front springs -Step 58 reset errocodes and getting air in the system. -Experience with the new Arnott Genration III springs
Back to overview Symptoms in the weeks before:
I was aware, that a bad airspring was coming soon. It has been taken a bit longer to raise from Access Heigth to Standard Ride Heigth over the last 2-3 weeks, and even lost some heigth when standing a couple of hours.
Back to overview Why replace ?
	Why replace: One of the airsprings has a punkture, and all 4 airsprings has lowered to the bumpstops. All 4 springs was the genuine Dunlop and was 14 years old (from the the vehicle was new)
Back to overview Errorcode on dashboard:
	Errorcode on dashboard: Error code is changing all the time between EAS FAULT and SLOW: 55KPH which tells You not to drive any faster than 55 kph, and You realy dont want to drive faster, because it is very bumpy, when it is running on the bumpstops. The error code do not tell You exactly what the problem is.
Back to overview Considerations on replacement springs and tools:
The old 14 year old genuine dunlop spring. The box with Arnott genration III springs 4 New Arnott genration III airsprings in the box Arrow 1 is Arnott genration III rearspring Arrow 2 is Arnott genration III front spring Close look at the top of the Arnott genration III rearspring with collet forair pipe and hole for R clip Close look at the top of the Arnott genration III frontspring with collet for air pipe and 2 bracket for top clip Close look at the bottom of the Arnott genration III spring rearspring have hole for R clip frontspring have hole for retainer pin Arnott genration III Rearspring ID Arnott genration III Frontspring ID	Considerations on replacement springs and tools: There is 4 possibilities to renovate or renew the airsprings A: Replacing the bladder only. B: Replacing with new or secondhand Dunlop Airsprings (genuine) C: Replacing with Arnott genration II airsprings. D: Replacing with Arnott generation III airsprings with lifetime warenty I started to cosider the possibilies, when I started loosing air, and it took a while to reach stadard height, when I started the engine. I could not see the realy horror of the oldsprings until the vehicle was jacked up and the axles was hanging free and the oldsprings was rolled out in full length. It was aprox a month before the errorcode appeared. A: Replacing the bladders It is the cheapest way to get running again. To day I am happy, that I did not choose this, because I did damage my old spring top and bottoms when the old R Clips and retainer pins did break. As a matter of fact I could only pull two of the R clips out (one easy and one with troble). The rest did breake or I had to breake them on purpose, to get the springs out. I even had to drill holes in the top end of one rearspring. See the replacing steps below. If You choose replacing the bladders, I suggest, that You try to pull out the R clips and the retatiner pins before You order the bladers, just to see if it is possible. B: Replacing with new Dunlop Airsprings (genuine) It is the same as before, but perhaps a bit tighter suspension than before, because the oldsprings is a bit soft. If You buy secondhand, pull the springs apart as far as You can, so they is rolled entirely out, because they wear most in bottom end, and check for cracks or other horrors, and see if there is any clip or retainer pins left in the holes. C: Replacing with Arnott genration II airsprings. As the Dunlop airsprings, BUT enhanced. The bladders can not pop off since they is mounted with steel crimps, and they are designed for extra durabillity. D: Replacing with Arnott generation III airsprings with lifetime warenty These are the most expesive, BUT have several enhancements. - Lifetime waranty (my genuine Dunlops stayed alive for 14 years, so perhaps not so importent) - They is designed similar to those in the Range Rover MK3 = L322, which gives softer ride when rised to high and firmer ride when in standard or highway higth. - They have aprox 2 inches more traveling length. This means that You can set the higth in: access mode to the same as original Highway mode to the same as original Standard mode to the same as original Rised mode to 2 inch higher than original I have read on the net about the different springs, primarely at www.rangerovers.net and www.arnottindustries.com but other places as well. Comment to Arnott generation III is often that You can not rice the High mode without lengtening the hightsensors otherwise the will break , and longer schocks. I contacted the dealer. I contacted John Brabyn (rangerover.net) and I contacted Arnott industries. This to by sure, that it was possible without other expensive modification and other new parts. Arnott Industries did confirm, that it is exactly what they is designed for, and no other modifications is nessesary. Then I decided for the Arnott Generation III springs, and ordered them. see photos left. They arrived 3 working days later. Due to my bad luck with the clips and retainer pins, I will recomend to buy a complete set of clips and retainer pins before You start. I did not, and the work was delayed one day, because my clips did break during dismanteling. See the below steps. Tools You need: - a jack - two axlestands (remeber it is a heavy vehicle) - a roll of tape - a large screwdriver (20 to 24 cm leaf) - 13 mm box spanner - a flat-nose pliers - a crowbar - box spanner for the wheelnuts - a min. 24 cm 4 mm metal drill or a normal drill and a length extensioner (if You have my bad luck with one of the top R clips on the rear springs) see step 8. Parts You need: - 4 new airsprings or secondhand - 4 R clips for the rearsprings - 2 retainer pins for the front springs - 4 top clips for the front springs. - Waxoil (if You want to prevent against rust) Time: I used 16 hours, but seems to have all the bad luck You can have, and did cleanfor rust and gave waxoil as well.. Other have been replacing the rearspring in half an hour. I think, that i could do the job now in 2-4 hours for all 4 springs now where it is possible to dismantle evrything easy and i do not have to make rust protection. The pincip is very simple.
Back to overview Step 1: Deflating the air system:
	Step 1: You have to take the pressure off the system before You begin. Step 1 can be done in one of three ways: 1: You can drive to a Land Rover garage and let them take the pressure off and drive home with max 55 KPH 2: You can visit www.rangerovers.net to se how You can do it without a diagnostic equipment. 3: You can use a diagnostic equipment, rest of step 1 is doing this with a faultmate MSV and software for a P38. Start Your computer. Connect Faultmate Diagnostic seriel cable to Your computer.
	Connect the faultmate MSV to the seriel cable and connect to the ODB cable
	Connect the ODB cable to Your diagnostic plug in the footwell in the passenger side below the glovebox.
	Insert the ignitionkey and turn it to position 2 (ignition on, but do not start engine)
	Start the computerprogramme "Vehicle Explorer" Click "Select by Vehicle" Click "Land Rover" Click "R Rover (P38) Click "Suspension" Click "95-" Click "Lucas EAS type 2" Click "Other" Click "Deflate Entire System" Then it opens the main valve for one minute and let the air out. Even in my coincidence, where one airspring was punktured, I could hear it did open the valve and let air out. When it is done, take the ignitionkey out, detach the cables, close the programme and the computer. And you are ready for the mechanical work.
Back to overview Step 2 - 26 Replacing the rear springs:
	Step 2: Jack up the rear end and place the vehicleon 2 axle stands under the chassisframe. NB: the vehicle is heavy, my axle stands is aproved to 2000 kg each.
	Step 3: Clean the air pipe connection with a tuthbrush to prevent dirt in the air system. Push the collet flange (brass ring arrow 1) with a screwdriver without damaging the air pipe, and while pushing the collet You have to push and then pull the air pipe and it will come out.
	Step 4: Cover the end of the air pipe with a piece of tape to prevent dirt to get into the air pipe during the futher work.
	Step 5: Just a drawing of the collet and air pipe from the genuine LR spring. The arrows A is the same as arrow 1 in the obove picture. 4 is the same as arrow 2 in the above picture. If the air pipe is damaged, You can shorten it and with a square cut and sharpen it a litle bit with a pencil sharpener after cutting it. 6 is two O-rings.
	Step 6: Lift the axle with the jack until the axle is not hanging in the spring. This to make it possible to pull out the R clips.
	Step 7: Pull the big R Clip out (arrow 1) Arrow 2 is just showing the air pipe. Use a hook to pull. This schould be easy. If the Clip come out, You can continue to step 9 If The clip do not come out, continue here: It was easy at the left spring, but at the right spring, the clip did breake. What now ? almost no room above the chassis frame to work.
	Step 8: I could not knock it through with a mandrel. I used a thin 4mm drill with an length extensioner (aprox 30 cm) and drilled. I could not drill the clip out, because the top of the spring i plastic, but I could drill several holes around the clip and then knock the rest of the clip through with a mandrel. Since the top of the spring is made of plastic, it is easy to drill in. This damaged the old spring, but I have decided to use new ones and not replacing with bladders.
	Step 9: Pull out the R clip at the bottom of the air spring (it is obove the axle). If the Clip come out, You can continue to step 11 If The clip do not come out, continue with step 10:
	Step 10: Unfortunately I could not pull it out. Not at the right spring and not at the left spring. In the right spring I could knock it from the other side with a mandrel until it was in the hole.Then i could pull it from out while twisting it at the same time. At the left spring, the clip did breake, and I had to breake it from the other side as well by twisting it up and down until it did breake.
	Step 11: When both R clips is out, lower the axle, so it is hanging free. Now it is possible to pull end of the spring down from the hole in the chassis. If the spring come out, You can continue to step 13 If The spring do not come out, continue with step 12:
	Step 12: Well it was not that easy. I had to use force. I did use crowbar to break the upper end loose (photo). And it was necessary to use a crowbar to loose the bottom end of the spring as well (wrist on the axle against the bottom of the spring)
	Step 13: Just as well clean the tower and spray with waxoil, to prevent rust, now You have access. Here You can see the hole in the tower where the top end of the spring is pushed through.
	Step 14: Here is the bottom bracket on the axle, where the bottom end of the spring is pushed through. It is also cleaned and sprayed with waxoil.
	Step 15: Top end of new spring. Collet sealed with tape to prevent dirt and testing that new R clip fits.
	Step 16: Bottom end of new spring. Testing that new R clip fits.
	Step 17: New R Clip
	Step 18: Grease the new R clip with coppergrease to make it easier to remove, if needed in the future.
	Step 19: Put the new airspring into place, and twist it so it goes through the hole in the top of the tower. left and right airspring is equal, no difference.
	Step 20: Lift the rear axle with the jack, so it press the spring to through the top hole.
	Step 21: Place the R clip in the hole of the upper end of the spring with a flat-nose pliers.
	Step 22: Push it into position with a long screwdriver.
	Step 23: Put the bottom of the airspring into place in the bracket, and twist it, so it goes through the hole in the bracket on the axle.
	Step 24: Place the R clip in the hole of the bottom end of the spring with a flat-nose pliers, and push it into position.
	Step 25: remove the tape sealing of the air pipe and the collet on the spring. Then press the air pipe firmly into the collet, quite firmly, and then pull gently to ensure connection.
	Step 26: Rear spring finished and into place.
	Step 27: Jack up the rear end and remove the 2 axle stands under the chassisframe. And jack down the vehicle.
Back to overview Step 28 - 57 Replacing the front springs:
	Step 28: Losen the wheelnuts on the front wheels Jack up the front end and place the vehicle on 2 axle stands under the chassisframe. Then remove the wheelnuts and remove the front wheels. NB: the vehicle is heavy, my axle stands is aproved to 2000 kg each.
	Step 29: When the front axle is hanging free, You can see the old front airspring folded completely out, And see the horror which You can not see, when the vehicle is standing on the wheels.
	Step 30 (only left side on LHD): Right front spring can be accessed with out removing anything. But on LHD vehicles You have to remove the air filtet to access the left frontspring. Remove the wire from the bracket (arrow) Losen the 2 srews, holding the air filter in place Remove the airfilter.
	Step 30: Right front spring Arrow 1 is the collet Arrow 2 is the air pipe It can be accessed with out removing anything. Clean the air pipe connection with a tuthbrush to prevent dirt in the air system. Push the collet flange (brass ring arrow 1) with a screwdriver without damaging the air pipe, and while pushing the collet You have to push and then pull the air pipe (arrow 2) and it will come out..
	Step 31: Cover the end of the air pipe with a piece of tape to prevent dirt to get into the air pipe during the futher work.
	Step 32: Jack up the front axle, so it is not hanging in the spring. This to ease taken out the upper 2 clips and the lower retainer pin.
	Step 33: Arrow 1 is upper clip Arrow 2 is collet where You just detached the air pipe. Remove the first uper clip (arrow 1) and the second upper clip (diagonal across the first clip but a bit ackward to take a photo of).
	Step 34: The first clip, you can remove from the engine bay with a screwdriver. The second clip can be accessed from the whell arch. You can improve the acces by removing the fender liner, But it is possible to pull the fenderliner a bit out with one hand and remove the clip with the other hand or a small screwdriver. I did not remove the fender liner. Now the spring is dismantled in the upper end.
	Step 35: You have to lift the upper side of the clip a bit up and push it over the top to get the clip off. You have to push the upper side of the clip over the top until it falls down on the other side to get the clip on. (photo).
	Step 36: The lower (bottom end of the spring) is holded in place with a retainer pin, which is bolted in place just beside the bottom of the spring (arrow) to secure the retainer pin.
	Step 37: Loosen the 13 mm bolt.
	Step 38: Removed bolt. With the bolt removed it schould be possible to pull the retainer pin out. If the Retainer pin come out, You can continue to step 41 If The retainer pin do not come out, continue here: But I could not pull it out, and there was no space to drill it out.
	Step 39: I then twisted the end of the retainer pin up and down with a large screwdriver until it did breake. The other side of the retainer pin, I could not breake, beacuse it goes through a hole and out, where it is bolted in place. But I did bend it as far down as I could. (photo of left spring)
	Step 40: And it was necessary to use a crowbar to loose the bottom end of the spring. Wrist on the axle against the bottom of the spring, until the retainer pin break in the other side (not one heavy break but several times). (photo of left spring)
	Step 41: Lower the axle with the jack, and the spring is loose.
	Step 42: You can remove the spring.
	Step 43: New front spring
	Step 44: Place the new front spring into position with the upper end.
	Step 45: Jack up the axle, so the spring is pressed to the upper mountings.
	Step 46: New clips
	Step 47: Fit the 2 new upper clips. The outer one from behind the fender liner. and the inner clip from the engine bay.
	Step 48: The 2 new clip in place.
	Step 49: New retainer pin
	Step 50: Grease the new retainer pin with coppergrease to make it easier to remove, if needed in the future..
	Step 51: Place the bottom end of the spring in position throug the hole in the bracket on the axle, and push the new retainer pin into position.
	Step 52: New retainer pin in position through te bottom of the air spring..
	Step 53: Grease the 13 mm bolt (to secure the retainer pin) with coppergrease to make it easier to remove, if needed in the future.
	Step 54: Fit the 13 mm bolt to secure the retainer pin.
	Step 55: Tigthen the 13 mm bolt.
	Step 56: Right front spring Arrow 1is the collet Arrow 2 is the air pipe Remove the tape sealing from the air pipe and the cealing from collet on the spring. Then press the air pipe (arrow 2) firmly into the collet (arrow 2), quite firmly, and then pull gently to ensure connection. Front spring finished and into place.
	Step 57: Fit the front wheels and fit the wheel nuts. Jack up the front end and remove the 2 axle stands under the chassisframe. And jack down the vehicle. Tighten the wheel nuts.
Back to overview Step 58 reset errocodes and getting air in the system:
	Step 58: if You have errorcode on the dashborad then Step 58 can be done in one of two ways: 1: You can drive to a Land Rover garage with max 55 KPH and let them reset the errorcodes 2: You can use a diagnostic equipment. The rest of step 58 is doing this with a faultmate MSV and software for a P38. Start Your computer. Connect Faultmate Diagnostic seriel cable to Your computer.
	connect the faultmate MSV to the seril cable and connect to the ODB cable
	Connect the ODB cable to Your diagnostic plug in the footwell in the passenger side below the glovebox.
	Insert the ignitionkey and turn it to position 2 (ignition on, but do not start engine)
	Start the computerprogramme "Vehicle Explorer" Click "Select by Vehicle" Click "Land Rover" Click "R Rover (P38) Click "Suspension" Click "95-" Click "Lucas EAS type 2" Click "Read Faults" just to see the errors in the system, not nessesary Click "Clear Faults" When it is done, You can start the engine and be patience, it takes several minutes, and then the Range Rover rises slowly to standard heigth. If it does not rise, check all connections with soap water (use a spray bottle because the connectins is difficault accessable) Then You can test the different heigths not nessesary click Other Click send to Access and wait until it lowers to access heigth Then try Click send to standard and wait until it rises to standard heigth Then try Click send to rise and wait until it rises to rised heigth Then try Click send to standard and wait until it rises to standard heigth Nice to see it all works again. Stop the engine Take the ignitionkey out, detach the cables, close the programme and the computer. And you finished.
Back to overview Experience with the new Arnott Genration III springs:
	I have not tryed off road yet and not with the extra higth yet, but with the normal higth settings, evrything works as it shall. On normal roads and high ways there is an icredible differnce. It has become a tight suspension, not rolling nearly as much during conrering and much firmer on the road. Off cource I can not tell how much tighter, because my old springs were bad condition and they may have been softer than they schould be. And another thing: You can feel the road now. Some will claim, that it is not as luxurous as the standard spring, but feels allmost like a RR mk III. But my schock absorbers is softer than the schocks on the range Rover mk III. For the comparence, I will mention that my brother in law have a RR mk III.