Range Rover, Wod's Site, Original prospect 1973

This page is about restauration, and I renounce any claims according to use the tips on this Site. It is on one's own responsibility to follow the restauration-step.

	Step 1: Loosen the wheel-nuts, when the vehicle is standing on ground
	Step 2: jack up the vehicle and support on a axlestand or something safe, so You have two different supports in the same time.
	Step 3: Free the two rubberpipes by pulling back the spiral. Clamp the two rubberpipes to avoid loosen brake fluid.
	Step 4: Take out the two split pins which secures the brakepads.
	Step 5: Squeeze the brakepads free and take out the brakepads.
	Step 6: Loosen the brake pipes and free the brakepipes from the caliber.
	Step 7: Loosen the first bolt which hold the caliber.
	Step 8: Loosen the second bolt which hold the caliber.
	Step 9: Take off the brake caliber.
	Step 10: Onely one of the 4 pistons where bad, and the rest OK, so they were blocked by some pieces of wood. To press out the bad piston, You have to press i gently out with Air, from a compressor.
	Step 11: take out hte old sealing rubber..
	Step 12: All taken apart.
	Step 13: Clean the grooves carefully.
	Step 14: Clean it afterwards with air to secure, that there is no metal-spines left.
	Step 15: Just a close up of 14.
	Step 16: Clean with air through the brake-pipe-holes..
	Step 17: Here You can see the row in which the new sealing has to come in.
	Step 18: A distance view of 17.
	Step 19: Fit the inner rubbersealing.
	Step 20: Fit the outer sealing in the metal-sealing-ring.
	Step 21: Place the outer-rubber-sealing with the metal-sealing-ring straight over the cylinder, and press with equal pressure all over into the cylinder. Be carefull to make an equal pressure all over (I had to use three metal sealing rings before succes, because they bend).
	Step 22: All sealings in place.
	Step 23: Now press the piston gently into the cylinder.
	Step 24: Just a picture of the old piston.
	Step 25: A closeup of the old piston, which is very rusty.
	Step 26: Put the caliber back into place.
	Step 27: Fit the upper bolt, which hold the caliber.
	Step 28: Fit the lower bolt which hold the caliber, and tighten both bolts.
	Step 29: Put the brake pipes back into place, and tighten to the caliber.
	Step 30: Put some coppergrease on hte brakepads to avoid noise.
	Step 31: Insert new split pins to secure the brakepads.
	Step 32: Unclamp the two rubberpipes which secured against loosen brake fluid, and press the two spirals back over the rubberpipes.
	Step 33: Disconnect the electric wire from the brake-main-cylinder.
	Step 34: Loosen the switch with 4 complete turns before taking air out of the brakesystem.
	Step 35: You have to be two persons to do the next steps. One inside the car to manage the brakepedal, and one outside to loosen and tighten the airsnuts. - Loosen the airnut. - Press gently the brake-pedal down. - When the pedal is down, You have to tigthen the airnut. - Release the brakepedal slowly. You now have to repeat the procedure until there is no air in the brakefluid which comes out.
	Step 36: Repeat step 35 fore the lower inner airnut.
	Step 37: Repeat step 35 fore the upper inner airnut.
	Step 38: Tighten the switch on the brake-master-cylinder with aprox 4 complete turns until it is tight.
	Step 39: Connect the electric wire to the brake-main-cylinder..
	Step 40: Mount the wheel again and jack up the vehicle to remove the extra support on the axlestand so you can jack the vehicle down.
	Step 1: Tighten the wheel-nuts, when the vehicle is standing on ground. Press the brake pedal slowly a couple of times to make sure it is firm before You take a testride. Now the job is finished